Since the beginning of my adventures with the Daring Bakers almost two years ago, I must say I've never encountered real obstacles in tackling the various challenges, apart from the usual stress of having to prepare, photograph, and write up the recipe at the last minute due to my recurring habit of always doing everything urgently! And this November challenge, themed around one of the most famous Sicilian pastries, Cannoli, seemed to be just as smooth: a dough that could be made in a snap, frying (which my guilty love for donuts has made me, if not an expert, at least an enlightened user), a quick and simple filling to prepare, and the availability of horn molds that would work perfectly in the absence of actual cannoli tubes.
And yet, rarely has a challenge given me so much trouble!! The day before the challenge's publication date (November 27), I finally decided to make my cannoli. As expected, the dough was a breeze to make, roll out, and cut, but when it came time to shape the cannoli shells, I couldn't find my famous horn molds despite a thorough search in every corner of the kitchen!!
Of course, there was always the option, as suggested by our hostess, to make mille-feuille style cannoli, but I wanted the original version. After some thought and an intense search for a substitute, it clicked: I remembered a hand whisk that had already lost two loops. I just had to twist the instrument and bingo, I had my cannoli tube!!
(my one and lonely "cannoli tube"!!!)
In the joy of having found the miracle solution, I chose not to dwell on the fact that frying 35 cannoli one at a time, waiting between each one for the "tube" to be manipulable again to mold another shell, is long; that a whisk handle is not hollow like a cannoli tube and that in contact with hot oil, the glue sealing the ends would eventually give way and I would have to reform my makeshift mold after each cannolo; that holding the handle so close to the 190°C oil exposes you to splashes that didn't fail to dot said hand with red spots and beautiful blisters.. Nor did I linger on the fact that using a small-diameter fluted nozzle to pipe a cream enriched with small grains of praline and/or chopped nuts wasn't a very smart idea and that unblocking the nozzle with a toothpick to fill the cannoli while guests waited in the next room didn't give the hostess rosy cheeks and a fresh look but rather red ones with a matching mood. With this challenge, I was no longer a Daring Baker; I was a hero!! And the cannoli were as successful as they deserved to be, with the perfect blend of crispiness and creaminess and the satisfaction of seeing it through to the end.. even to the point of telling you about it!
Cannoli Siciliani
(makes 35 to 40 cannoli of 7-8 cm)
- 300g all-purpose flour
- 35g sugar
- 5g (1 tsp) unsweetened cocoa powder
- a pinch of cinnamon (optional)
- 1/2 tsp fine salt
- 42g (3 tbsp) neutral vegetable oil or olive oil
- 1 tsp white wine vinegar or vodka
- 120g (ml) sweet white wine
- 1 egg white
- neutral oil for frying (about 2 liters)
- filling: classic ricotta or your choice (here praline cream and vanilla cream), peeled and chopped pistachios, dark chocolate chips or grated chocolate etc. for decoration
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In a medium bowl, mix the flour, sugar, cocoa powder, cinnamon, and salt with a spoon. Add the oil and vodka and most of the wine: mix while gradually adding the remaining wine until a thick dough forms, similar to pie dough but more supple. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface and knead for 2 minutes or just until it becomes smooth and homogeneous. Roll the dough into a ball, wrap it in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 2 hours or overnight.
Divide the dough into 2 pieces (cover the unused piece to prevent it from drying out and forming a crust). Roll out the first half of the dough as thinly as possible (2-3 mm) on a lightly floured work surface.
Note: In practice, the rolled-out dough should cover an area of about 45 x 33 cm. Initially, the dough tends to retract: to achieve the desired thickness more easily, start by rolling from the center outwards, let the dough rest for 2-3 minutes, then roll again until the desired thickness is reached, possibly allowing further rest periods if the dough is too elastic.
Cut 7 cm circles (for medium cannoli) with a cookie cutter or glass, then elongate each circle into an oval. You can also roll out the dough into a regular rectangle and cut squares that will be wrapped around the tubes from one corner. Lightly oil the cannoli tubes and form the cannoli by wrapping a dough circle around the tube (the ends should overlap) and sealing the joint with a bit of egg white.
Note: If like me you only have one "tube," cut the circles as you go along, stretching them roughly either by hand or with a rolling pin. By doing this, it gives the tube time to cool a bit after frying the first cannolo before reshaping the next one.
Prepare a large tray lined with one or two layers of paper towels. Heat the oil in a deep-sided pot or deep fryer (aim for an oil depth of about 8 cm) to 190°C or until a small piece of bread dropped in rises immediately surrounded by bubbles and browns in 1 minute. Carefully lower up to 4 tubes at a time into the oil and let them brown for 30 seconds to 1 minute, turning them once to achieve uniform cooking and color (if the surface of the cannoli shell is dotted with small bubbles, it's a sign of success!!). Remove the tubes with a slotted spoon, drain well to remove oil from inside the tube, and place them on the prepared tray. Immediately "demold" the cannolo by gently sliding it off the tube, possibly using a gloved hand or a kitchen towel.
Stack of Cannoli shells
Fry all the cannoli until the dough is used up, letting them cool completely on the paper towels.
Note: Cannoli shells can be prepared in advance (3 to 4 days) if stored in an airtight container. If they soften a bit, simply reheat them in the oven (150°C) for a few minutes to restore their crispiness.
Note: You can decorate the ends of the cannoli shells by dipping them in melted chocolate sprinkled or not with finely chopped pistachios or other nuts.
Just before serving or 30 minutes prior, fill the shells with the chosen filling: I used praline cream with grated dark chocolate and homemade praline for some of the cannoli and for the others, simple whipped cream flavored with vanilla, with grated chocolate and chopped peeled pistachios. Fill a pastry bag fitted with a fluted nozzle (1 cm) and stuff the shells from both ends. Decorate the ends of the cannoli by gently pressing them onto chopped pistachios (or almonds) and/or grated chocolate. Classic cannoli are often decorated with candied fruits: orange peel and cherry. Dust with sifted powdered sugar or decorate with a drizzle of melted chocolate. Buon appetito!
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