Classic Carbonara

 Spaghetti Carbonara - it's a classic. It's pasta's little black dress. Hold the cream, please. The velvety smooth coating is from the eggs and eggs alone. The eggs are insulted when cream is added. This is not a quiche. Carbonara is not Alfredo. They are not twins.

Carbonara's origins are a bit murky. Because "carbonara" is derived from the Italian word for "charcoal," many theories abound. Some believe it started as a hearty meal for Italian charcoal workers. Others think it was originally cooked over charcoal. And yet another theory is that is the specks of black pepper and pancetta in the velvety pasta looked like little charcoals on the dish.
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When the opportunity came my way to cook a recipe from the culinary school at Baltimore International College, I pounced on the Classic Carbonara recipe. When I became engaged to my husband, my mother made carbonara for a welcoming dinner for his family. My sister and I made Bon Appetit's Fettuccine Carbonara (with a fried egg on top no less - really, the Easter Bunny applauded our egg consumption that evening) for my family a little while ago - it was a splendid meal.


It's also a fast meal. Gather your ingredients: (For 4-6 people)

• 1/2 pound bacon - chopped (Italians use pancetta - I do like the meaty bacon in this)
• 1 tablespoon chopped garlic (about 2-3 cloves)
• 4 large eggs, beaten (I used organic)
• 1 cup freshly-grated Parmigiano-Reggiano (can use 2/3 Parm and 1/3 Pecorino-Romano)
• 1 pound spaghetti, cooked al dente
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh parlsey (I used 1/4 of a cup)
• salt and pepper to taste

(Note: there is no cream)
While the bacon sizzles, take note that the pasta will be thrown into a portion of the bacon grease and coated with it. The grease and pasta need to be hot - because your eggs will "cook" the pasta. That's right. You remove the pan from the heat (so you don't have scrambled eggs and pasta) and let the pasta do the cooking of the eggs. If you have a terror of salmonella, this may not be your recipe as it's the only way to do it. You must trust that the pasta will cook the raw eggs. And adding cream will not help.
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1. In a large saute pan (I used a Dutch oven - easier to hold the pasta), cook the bacon until crispy - about 6 minutes.

2. Beat your eggs.
3. Cook your pasta according to package directions.

4. Remove bacon from pan and drain on paper towels. When cool, "crisp" them into millions of little pieces.

5. Drain all but 3 tablespoons of bacon grease.

6. Add garlic and saute for 30 seconds. Return bacon to the pot.
7. Add pasta to pot and swirl - coating it with garlic, bacon and yes - the grease.

8. Remove pot from heat (important or the eggs will curdle) and immediately add the eggs. (Could also add some of the cheese into the beaten eggs and add it together). Swirl the eggs until the hot pasta is coated and cooking the eggs. The rich, buttercup, velevty texture appears once the eggs are cooked. All is smooth and beckoning.

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9. Add the cheese and mix in well. It is important that the cheese be freshly-grated. Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano is so soft and billowy - you would never know it was from a hard cheese! It quickly attaches itself to the eggs and melts into the pasta. The pasta coating becomes rich and vibrant. It begs for a taste. And so you must - for you now need to season the pasta. Taste and add salt and pepper according to taste (I rarely salt and I am generous with the pepper).

9. Put spaghetti in serving bowl and top with parsley (as stated I used a lot more than the recipe called for). Toss well.

10. Toss again. (And just to be sure - have another taste).

11. Serve.

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This dish elevates bacon and eggs to an engagement dinner. The luxurious coating on the spaghetti is fit for a royal occasion. There's a reason Calvin Trillin wanted to replace the Thanksgiving turkey with spaghetti carbonara. Trillin actually waged a campaign to have Thanskgiving changed to Spaghetti Carbonara Day. And Mr. Trillin never had cream in his carbonara.
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I noted my changes as I went along. This recipe is a classic. I am an herb-nerd and always add more. I also am a clumsy herb-nerd so I used a Dutch oven instead of thinking I could toss the pasta well in a large saute pan. I've picked up strands of spaghetti from many unlikely places. I do acquire dictator tendencies in the last few minutes of cooking this dish. I want to be absolutely sure that the eggs are cooked so I have my bowl of beaten eggs six inches from the cooking pot. The dog and cat are removed from the kitchen so when I start adding the eggs and stirring like crazy, I don't trip on them. Nobody dares come near me to get a glass of water.

I love that the recipe is a classic, "don't mess with me, straight forward, use fresh ingredients" recipe. It's a dish reserved for special occasions and it lives up to its reputation (even if it won't replace the Thanksgiving turkey, even if there is no cream). With a little heat, Parmigiano-Reggiano melts into eggs and together they are transformed into velvet. It's truly a magical dish.

When we last made carbonara - we added broccoli. It actually worked well and wouldn't hurt. Pancetta instead of bacon? Absolultely! Just remember to use freshly-grated cheese, trust that the pasta will cook your eggs and please - hold the cream.

Carbonara - 'tis a classic. Like a trench coat, Cary Grant....

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